Dusty's

It must be Friday 'cause another French restaurant opened up in Los Angeles. The latest Bistro on the block is Dusty's (3200 W. Sunset Blvd.), a spacious room with dark wood panneling serving an assortment of French cuisine.

The first time I went here, I thought this place would make for a fine alternative to the overly crowded Cafe Stella up the street, but then I made the mistake of trying this place again. It was a towering letdown, made even worse by the fact that I brought guests here.

You see, I was entertaining a couple of models who just flew in from Paris last Friday and I took them here for dinner. (It wasn't my first choice. We were in the neighborhood and we had a real hankerin' for champagne.) Anyway, they had run out of their Moulles Frites. My girls were not impressed. We ordered the Steak Frites. The steak was fatty and the fries were dry and a little cold. And though he meant well, our waiter was inattentive and run off his feet. I hear Dusty's is popular for breakfast. Maybe I should give that a whirl. The atmosphere is great. When it's crowded it has a lively bistro vibe. Maybe we just hit it on an off night.